Elbrus from the North
Climbing up Elbrus became for Vandals the top of bright tourist season. Four brave men started off to the top of Europe along explorers route to raise the flag of our young tourist movement as an achievement of our ambitions to reach set goals and tops.
Overcoming laziness and weakness is not only sport, stuffy gyms and jogging, our way is to know our own strengths, character,strong will through adventures and climbing.
During backpacking you discover not only new places but first of all yourself. Team spirit makes you go ahead ,not stop before troubles, unknown, you obtain new knowledge,become a different person, better and wiser, as the proverb says: ” one man climbs up a mountains but descends a quite different person”.
Our adventure has been put off since June, we did not have enough people in group but late in august we set off to Elbrus top along northern explorers route. Vandals had to walk with back packs up 3800m to the glacier and repeat the route of July 1829.
It was especially great to repeat that historical route, so we came to Emmanuel’ s glade, where200 years ago general planned to arrange expedition and conquer beheaded giant. Modern glade did not change much. Just some extra tents and a dozen of Alps cows appeared on the edges.
After setting up our tent camp we went for a walk to Jill Su springs famous for their medical features. Local and distant people come here for health. Our way back was through a beautiful Kizilkol canyon,where the bridge was a big stone stuck between rocks, it is called ” Kalinov most”.
On the next day we had adaptive climbing 3100m on the top of Surkh mountain. There are lots of legends dealt with it. Northern part of Elbrus is a perfect place with enormous Plato’s, rocks and springs.
On the third day we made another trip before glaciers on the way to Elbrus passing by German airoport to ” Stone mushrooms, height 3200. Stone mushrooms are rocks of strange shape,there were many disputes about their origin. Some people are sure that wind, others state the level of Plato has been higher before.
German airport is a flat ground between rocks. Locals call it so,but historians reject airport version.but once it was found a note of Defence Ministry #041 about using that ground for German planes ” fokke- wolf” daily landing. What was their aim?
Shwmbala is considered to be in Tibet. It is a mysterious place entering which you become a superman. Besides main gates to opposite world there are some more doors through which you can join Shambala on mental level. German occultists considered Elbrus to be such place: They called it Ariy mountain.
After 3days adaptation we took tents from 2500 m and start up to 3800, where we are to go through last preparation stage before the top on glacier. I was millions of times sorry about putting too many things into rucksack,about cheap sleeping bag2,2kg instead ofv light one 1kg. The way to glacier took us 5 hours. The assault camp consisted of low panel houses just with sleeping places and we fell asleep.
We stepped onto glacier on the fifth day and divided the team into small groups connected with rope to avoid falling down. That day the aim was Lens rocks 4800 m, height check of strength and feelings. Two of us had headaches,seekness, and top became foggy for them. Our bodies refused to go up but insisted on descending for oxygen. It was a hard day.
On The sixth day of rest we could sleep well and admire views. We saved power for climbing top at night. In the evening it started snowing, wind was blowing and our trip was doubtful. Tired bodies were pleased with bad weather as with a good reason to stay in sleeping bags. Every night of our staying the wind was strong,our houses shook, it was – 35 C in sleeping bags. Evening forecast was bad, snowy and windy, so we ate the cake prepared for descending.
We got a news from rescuers on the seventh day that by the evening it was expected weather improvement. We could use reserve day for climbing. We were almost out of food.climbing was planned for midnight according to t he instructor, who sent us to sleep for 12 hours more.
At midnight it was – 15 C, in the sky there were bright stars,no wind and people started putting on equipment. It was not classical climbing from the south with crowds of people like in Mac Donalds in the 90 s. There were just two groups besides ours and one guy stayed in the camp with fever.
Let’s start! It is easier to walk at night. You are focused on breath, count falling stars and go ahead. After 4 hours we reached Lenz rocks.meet dawn. It was great start, I wish we would avoid headaches. Two of us suffered from them and 200 years ago most participants returned from this height. Only straight ahead! We pass by Lens rocks on5000 m, rest and go up to 5200. There was a domn ahead and it was most complicated climbing which seemed endless. It was 400 m domn with good degree of climbing, we thought to go up faster.we lost much power, many people fell down being exhausted, but it was not the end.last 100 m to the top were left. Last step was left before 5621 m sign. ( eastern top of Elbrus).
Most cheerful spent 20 min on the top enjoying height and taking pictures, others were extremely tired and started to go down fast. Climbing took in general 9,5 hours depending on speed. Not all knees were for intensive descending. So generally 15-16 hours on foot, nobody said it would be easy.
Climbing is a specific rest suitable not for every tourist. But the mountain is a perfect way to Overcome yourself check your spirit, body, will and ambitions. Just mountains where you have not been yet can be better than other ones!